Iconic Morocco.  The Medina is a maze of alleys and steps and turns leading to more alleys, turns and steps.  We logged 30 flights and close to five miles wandering around. Ira was very upset that Google Maps was of little use in this den of warrens, and I would never have ventured far without a guide.  You could get lost forever. The Jewish residents were somewhat responsible for the predominant blues in the structures; but blue is also, like the hamsa, thought to ward off the evil eye.  The alleys are lined with stalls selling just about everything. Morocco is a BYO country, but you can bring alcohol to your room.  A large terrace with  a table was just outside our room in the riad, so we decided to buy some wine and have dinner there.  The purchase was an adventure – the place where we bought a bottle of red Moroccan wine was like an opium den or maybe a speakeasy from Prohibition.  A number of fairly sleazy looking diners, all male, eating artichokes.  We wandered through room after room, led by a young man with a mouthful of braces although his teeth seemed worn to nubs.  Yes, Morocco actually has vineyards although the Muslim religion forbids alcohol.  They are run by the French and the wine is quite good.